COF2011: Day 2, “The moment of real excitement comes after 4 or 5 years.”

I love that quote, especially when those words describe white wines. They were uttered by Christian Patat, who together with wife Serena, run the Ronco dei Gnemiz winery in San Giovanni Natisone. The ’04 Chardonnay “Sol” drove home that point: still vibrant, with spice and mineral, unfolding layers of complexity and finishing off with a sexy combination of Lemon Cream and Creme Fraiche. The wood wasnt a deal-breaker here, as it so often is for me…

Gnemiz is an interesting winery… all organic and biodynamic without all the nasty funk and orange color. The Sauvignons we tasted (’06, ’08. and ’09) were also bright colored and have ZERO malolactic fermentation. The Chardonnay, instead, was 100% malo…

21308643-P1020684Next stop was at the mythical Miani farm to meet with Enzo Pontoni and taste his legendary wines…

21308854-P1020692We tasted two versions of ’09 (Tocai) Friulano: Buri (Friulano for Buttrio, the town where the vineyards are found) and Fillipe, which came from Rosazzo vineyards. All vinified in oak with tons of concentration and both with 100% Malolactic fermentaion…

And then it hit me… I think I need lots of Malo in my Oaky whites… Is it what makes them rich enough to stand up to the oak? The fact that my favorite oak-aged wines of the day had that single element in common gives me pause to reflect…

What do you think?

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