2003 Edi Kante Vitovska
As part of the EPIC tasting with Gianni Menotti, I opened one of my last bottles of Edi Kante’s killer Vitovska from 2003. Kante is a kind of icon/superhero/mythical beast. He’s known for riding his motocross motorcycle through vineyards.. at night. He has supposedly ridden a full-grown stallion into his tasting room. His cellar was dynamite-blasted into the granite of the Carso hills, just outside Trieste. He has to truck in soil to hold up young vines he plants on solid limestone. He ages his wines until he feels they’re ready, sometimes releasing younger vintages, and then backtracking to relaease an older vintage the next year… And no one blinks an eye, because for the most part, you could classify Edi as a mad genius.
Edi gave me a bunch of his bottles as a gift when I brought 2 friends to visit his unique cellar (and he INSISTED on making a dinner out ofthe event, instead of a simple walk-around-then-open-a-bottle-type affair). Edi makes wines in bottles of 500ml and 1000ml with unusually narrow necks and skinny corks. He says the selection of quality cork at that size is infinitely better than the standard diameter.
This was a 500ml bottle that we opened, and the initial nose was something like menthol or eucalyptus, which eventually softened out into sambuco flowers (Elderflower, for non-Italiani). Really tight on the palate, spicy and verging on metallic, but not at all unpleasant. Still so very fresh with NO signs of oxidation, but slightly short and light on the palate.
With air the malic acid really showed itself with Granny Smith apple flavors… Hints of smoke and gunpowder too.
Gianni remarked that this wine was made for lovely aromatics and less for weight, complexity and longevity, and despite there not being tons of weight, and being a little bit short, we both agreed the wine was first-class, clean and VERY drinkable.
You can get a little taste of Edi’s world (and a glimpse of yours truly) in this video made a couple years ago by two visiting Somms: